There are travels you make because you have been saving up for ages and longing to see the destination, because you’re following a band around or because a specific spot is on your bucket list. These kind of trips usually have you gleaming with motivation to meticulously plan every step and inform yourself properly before heading to the airport.
And then there’s vacations you make, simply because the plane tickets were on sale. This 11-day trip was something like that. I didn’t even book the flights. It was more like my parents going: „Oh, by the way, when are you free? We’re going to Japan.“
Don’t get me wrong, Japan has always been on the top of my list of countries to travel to, I just never expected it to be this soon, so I wasn’t mentally ready. Furthermore, between the time of the ticket acquirement and the departure, I had four different internships back-to-back in three different cities of two different continents. Needless to say, I had little time and interest to conceptualize an itinerary, and neither had my parents.
As the last days of my internship approached, we were suddenly struck by the realisation that our flight was leaving in about a week – and all we knew was that we would arrive at Narita Airport and leave from there 11 days later. No cities to visit, no hotels, no points of interest, no transportation inside the country.
Panic.
Itinerary
The first sensible thing to do is of course preparing an itinerary of which cities to visit for how many days. This was already harder than expected. Initially, we just wanted Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. But then people recommended Takayama and Shirakawago, so we planned our whole trip around the Winter Illumination that is only on 6 days in an entire year (so imagine the mayhem of getting tickets there, more on that later). Talking about Winter Illuminations there was another one near Nagoya, so we pitched in a stop there as well. After a lot of discussion we agreed on the final draft only two days before the flight and it looked something like this. (Start by clicking on the orange line)
Getting around
Japan has undoubtedly the best public transportation system in the whole world. Safety, comfortableness and especially punctuality are the general standard. Naturally, this comes with the downside that everybody uses public transport, so it gets very crowded and pushy inside the stations. Be careful to not abruptly stop when walking and always keep to the correct side of the road. Mostly that means the left side, unless you are riding an escalator (stand on the left, walk on the right). I noticed that some staircases are also reversed in order to have the railing on your right-hand side, but in those cases there are arrows painted on the ground guiding you. Another challenge is wrapping one’s head around the different transportation companies and systems. As far as I remember, all of the cities I’ve ever visited always had one company (if any) running the public transport, or at least you just needed one ticket to get from A to B. This is not the case in Japan.
For our trip, Japan Railways was the network we relied on most. The JR Group consists of seven companies, each covering intercity transport in a certain region in Japan and the Shinkansen (bullet trains). Since our journey required a lot of Shinkansen rides, we bought 7-day JR Passes from a travel agency in our hometown. A JR Pass gives you unlimited access to all JR trains during its validity period (exceptions are the Nozomi and Mizuho Shinkansen and several other smaller line segments). We paid something around $200 for one pass and considering one Shinkansen trip from Tokyo to Osaka alone cost almost $80, it was totally worth it. JR Passes are only sold to foreigners (Passport required for activation) and outside of Japan, so make sure to get yours prior to jumping on a plane! This JR pass doesn’t solve all your transportation problems, though. While there are many JR stations, the group isn’t well connected in intracity transport. As mentioned before, there are 16 other major private railways, each of them needing a separate ticket for a ride. Take Tokyo for example, you want to get from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku Station. Be assured that there are JR trains going this very busy route every 3-5 minutes. However, your hotel is another 25 minute stroll from Shinjuku station and you don’t have the time to walk this route every time you head home. So you look for the nearest station, which could be a Metro station. Tokyo Metro is one of those 16 private railways, meaning you will have to exit the JR area in Shinjuku Station and enter the Metro one, paying an extra fare here. Many tourist attractions in the cities we visited were not reachable with JR trains and we had to look for buses or get tickets from other railway companies instead. After our JR pass expired, we also had to pay the fares for JR trains.
This jungle of railway companies, stations, buses, different fares, timetables and routes does get very confusing, so your biggest helper will be a combination of Google Maps and this website / app:
Just enter the station you want to depart from and your destination. It will calculate the best route and alternative ways to get there. The site is easy to navigate and literally a saviour! It also shows you the prices of a trip. The fare depends on two things: where you get on and where you get off. It doesn’t matter how many train changes (in the same railway company) you make. So if you want to get from A to B but accidentally miss your stop and get off at station C to get back to B, it won’t be extra charged, because you will still exit at station B. This applies for both paper tickets and IC cards.
Now, what’s an IC card? In its core, it is a card with electronic money. You can charge it with a certain amount of JPY and use it to get through ticketing gates or shop at certain stores. I highly recommend these cards for simplifying the ticketing of Tokyo’s public transportation. Instead of having to get paper tickets at machine every time you change railway company, you just need to tap your card on the automatic gate. Your IC card can have different names, depending on which company issues them (PASMO, Suica, Manaca, Kitaca…) but they are all interchangable and valid throughout Japan. The only time you should watch which card to get, is when you want to get your deposit back. For example a Kitaca card (issued by JR Hokkaido) cannot be returned in Tokyo, because Tokyo is part of JR East. As for us, we acquired our Suica card at a Kiosk at Tokyo station, paid the 500 JPY deposit, initially charged it with 1500 JPY and refilled it a few days later. We didn’t return our cards, because these cards are valid for 10 years since their last usage (And yes, I’m hopeful, that I’ll visit Japan again some time before my card expires) and there is a fee of 220 JPY for the refund of whatever is left on your card. You will receive the 500 JPY in any case, though.(http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/suica.html)
Hotels
After figuring out which city we would stay in, we started looking for accommodation. My parents had there requirements (they were gonna pay after all): close distance to a main train station, no hassle during check in and check out and a private bathroom. This disqualified all hostels with shared bathrooms. We contemplated Airbnb but having no prior experience with the platform, my parents wanted to stay out of the slight possibility that the apartment owner couldn’t bring the keys, or there weren’t any elevators… Keep in mind, that this was a very last minute search, so many ideal places had no vacancies. More on each hotel later.
As you can see, the planning was a bit of a mess, but we made it there (and back). Without further ado, I’ll just continue with a little travel diary
QN











